Remember that the "Cletus Calendar" page will tell you what you should be doing this month, and the "Archive" page contains all of the previous months of the "Newsletter and Cletus Calendar".

*********** If you would like for me to teach a class for your group in your area, contact me at; dennis@lonestarfarms.net  for details.***********

******Check out the revised book link above.******

Book proceeds go to help our club website stay running. Thanks for your purchase.

Your host---For Sale--Bee Talk---Days Gone By

I just posted the September class "BEGINNERS BEEKEEPING CLASS PART 2." If you know you can make the class, please register early.

"Beginners Beekeeping Course"

( Part 2 )

1. How to set-up your bee yard.

2. What race of honeybee is best for you?

3. The best way to install your new package.

4. Africanized bees.

5. Nectar is not honey. Really?

6. Setting up a swarm box.

7. Why record keeping is a waste of time.

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For those of you who live within fifty miles of Lone Star Farms, take advantage of "Lone Star Farms Apiary Inspection Service." Contact Dennis for details.

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Host

I hope all of you enjoy your Labor Day holiday and remember that Autumn begins this month. Horray!

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Bee Talk

Dennis,

Wanted to thank you for a great class, Saturday.  It was informative.  I really appreciated the part that we saw how to put the frames together. The lightbulb went off. Knowing the tools available to make it so much easier and efficient was life changing.  I went home and got my catalogs out to order the frames. LOL.  Still think about how much trouble and expense I would have saved myself had I known about your classes earlier. Better late than never. I will spread the word and recommend them highly. Hope to see you next month for class.  Nini

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Hi Dennis,

I understand that you like to use two brood boxes for your hive configuration. The queen will have plenty of room to lay in and the hive population can be kept strong and lessen hive congestion.

Can I add that second brood box without using a queen excluder between the two boxes and let the queen go up and down to lay eggs in both boxes? If so, could I use two brood boxes in the season when bees are growing in numbers and super on the top with queen excluder between second brood box and honey super? We always use a brood box (deep) as honey supers.

We here in India have a problem with wax moths in summer time which starts in May till July/August. This is the month we do not have any or very little flowers to keep bees supplied with pollen. Though we feed sugar syrup, our hives are weak with fewer bees. It is difficult to find pollen supply. If pollen supply was provided and bees were fed with sugar water, will the queen continue to lay eggs? In India our winter is mild and we do not have snow fall. AKEEM

Hello Akeem,

Beekeeping management is directly related to the environmental conditions in a given area. Here in the southern USA can be different from the northern parts of the USA.

It sounds like in India you have to develop a management program that is better suited for your conditions. The basics in beekeeping management should be consistent no matter where you live. The difference should be in how and when you apply those basics.

For an example; here in Texas, our normal environmental conditions allow us to provide our bees with two brood boxes to live in full time. The bees are able to thrive and maintain that amount of space under normal conditions. When the honey flow arrives, we add a honey super above those two brood boxes. The queen will not usually move above those two brood boxes so an excluder is not necessary as long as you don’t leave the honey supers on for an extended period of time. After the honey flow, we remove all of the honey supers for our use and leave the two brood boxes for the bees to use. If we find a weak hive, we figure out why the hive is weak and fix the problem. It may be that the queen is still good but the hive has too much room. We then remove a box and run that hive in one brood box until the population builds back up and then we add the second box.

"Never give the bees more room than they are able to care for".

In your area, you may need to run your hives in one brood box or one brood box and medium box for the bees. Then place an excluder on top of that when you add a honey super. The point being that you should run your hives according to the environmental conditions in your area. If you are having trouble with wax moths, you are providing more room than the bee population can care for. Moths are opportunists and will take advantage of a weak hive.

As your hive population grows, you should expand their space. When the population declines, you should reduce their space. It may be that your bees could grow into two brood boxes for the honey flow. This will allow your bees to store honey in both brood boxes and then maybe store more in a super above for you. In two brood boxes, this would provide honey for your bees for a longer period of time which means that you would not have to feed your bee’s as much sugar water, if at all. Honey is always better for your bees than sugar water. When the hive population declines and the stores are used up, remove a brood box and run the hive in a smaller space if necessary. Add space and then remove it according to the bee’s needs and your location.

I hope this helps!

Dennis

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Days Gone By