Remember that the "Cletus Calendar" page will tell you what you should be doing this month, and the "Archive" page contains all of the previous months of the "Newsletter and Cletus Calendar".

Books that I have written:

"Beekeeping: A Personal Journey"--You can purchase it here on this site (Book page), in the classroom, Amazon.com or from Kelley Bee Supply Company. 

http://www.amazon.com/Beekeeping-Personal-Journey-Dennis-Brown/dp/1461055512/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1414414543&sr=1-1&keywords=beekeeping+a+personal+journey

 "Beekeeping: Questions and Answers"--You can purchase it here on this site (Book page), in the classroom, Amazon.com or from Kelley Bee Supply Company.  

http://www.amazon.com/Beekeeping-Questions-Answers-Dennis-Brown/dp/1482592533/ref=sr_1_3?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1414414720&sr=1-3&keywords=beekeeping+a+personal+journey

(Novel series) #1 Tom Richards-Justice Served--You can purchase it in the classroom, Amazon.com or through Kindle. (Now available) View it on Amazon.com   

http://www.amazon.com/Justice-Served-Tom-Richards-1/dp/1493580639/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1414414833&sr=1-1&keywords=Tom+Richards+Justice+served

(Novel series) #2 Tom Richards-Blood Trail of a Serial Killer--You can purchase it in the classroom, Amazon.com or through Kindle. (Now available) View it on Amazon.com   

http://www.amazon.com/Blood-Trail-Serial-Killer-Richards/dp/1495941469/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1414414927&sr=1-1&keywords=Tom+Richards+blood+trail+of+a+serial+killer

(Novel series) #3 Tom Richards-Voodoo Massacre--You can purchase it in the classroom, Amazon.com or through kindle. (Now available) View it on Amazon.com   

http://www.amazon.com/Voodoo-Massacre-Tom-Richards-Book-ebook/dp/B00OWOMDVY/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1414416436&sr=1-1&keywords=voodoo+massacre   

All book proceeds go to help our club website stay running. Thanks for your purchase.

If you would like for me to teach a class for your group in your area, contact me at; dennis@lonestarfarms.net  for details.  

"Please, post your Lone Star Farms Bee club on your Face Book Page, and add our club website to your favorites.

Your host---For Sale--Bee Talk---Days Gone By

Your Host

Hello Everyone,

We are moving into the slower time of the year for beekeeping which we all know gives us more time to work on that honey-do list Momma provides for us. We are quickly running out of excuses not to work on it. This is also the month we celebrate Columbus Day and Holloween. Back in the day when I was a kid I would jump into the covered wagon and canvas the neighbor hood for candy. It was safe back then to eat the treats. Then in the 1970's the "candy man" struck and changed Holloween forever. Sad.

Anyway, I hope that all of you enjoy your Columbus Day off (If you get it off.) and take your kids to a safe place on Holloween for gathering treats.

Dennis

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 This drawing is one from my book; "Beekeeping: A Personal Journey. I hope you enjoy it.

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 Bee Talk

 Hi Dennis,

Can you freeze honey? Does freezing damage honey? Sara W.

Hello Sara,

Yes, you can freeze liquid honey but, it will cause the honey to granulate much faster. No, the act of freezing honey does not in any way damage it or turn the honey a different color.

Dennis

Hey Dennis,

I checked both of my hives today to see how they were doing on winter stores. We have been feeding them sugar water using two parts sugar to one part water for about six weeks.

Both hives are looking good. The older hive has two brood boxes and one honey super packed with food. I almost harvested the honey super earlier in the year but it was only 2/3 full of honey so I left it. Because of the drought I decided not to harvest it and they have filled the remainder with sugar water.

The other hive was from a nuc I purchased this spring. It has two brood boxes with about five frames in each full. It appears to be strong and doing well. I noticed bees with pollen on their legs in one of the hives.

My question is two-fold. First, should we continue feeding them? Secondly, should we remove the full honey super and place it on the second hive so they can harvest it. If we remember correctly from our earlier class with you, we can place it on the second hive with an inner cover between it and the hive and they will harvest the honey and place it in the lower broods. Since the broods are not full would this be advisable?  Ralph

Hello Ralph,

On the second hive you said that there are two brood boxes and five frames in each that are full. What do you mean by full? Are you saying that the other five frames in each box are just foundation? (Not drawn) Are you saying that the frames are drawn but, there are no bees, brood or food on each of the five frames?

Response: Sorry about the lack of clarity. I am still learning this bee talk. They are not drawn. Five frames in each brood are drawn and have either brood or honey. The other frames are not drawn or they are just starting to draw them out.

That helps a lot. Let's start from the beginning. Whenever you start a new hive, you should start your bees off in “one”box. Notice; I said one box. This box could be a five frame nuc box or a ten frame brood box or one medium super as an example. (I would always recommend using a brood box.) The bees should remain in this box until the bees have drawn out (or filled) eight frames of the ten frames if they are in a standard ten frame box. Only then should another box be added for the bees to work with depending on the time of year. The bees will normally finish out the last two frames in this box before (or while) working on the top box if there is a nectar source coming in or if you feed them sugar water.

When you start with more than one box at a time, the bees tend to finish out five or six frames in the middle of the first box and then move up into the second box before finishing the rest of the frames in the first box. It is a natural tendency for the bees to move upward and not sideways.

With this new information at my disposal, I will suggest that you drop all the drawn-out frames from the top box into the bottom box and move all of the foundation frames from the bottom box up into the top box. (I like to run my hives with "nine "drawn-out”frames instead of ten. After all ten frames have been drawn-out first, I will remove one and then space the nine frames out appropriately. It makes hive inspections much easier to perform.) Now what you have is the bottom box is completely drawn-out with the brood in one place. The bees will now move up into the middle of the second box and begin to draw-out the foundation.

At this point I would recommend feeding the hive a two-part sugar to one-part water solution. Continue to feed until the entire second box is drawn out or they quit taking the food. If November (in Texas) rolls around and there are still frames that have not been drawn out, you should either add drawn comb to replace the foundation that is left or you should reverse the top and bottom box. During winter the bees will move up into the top box so you should make sure that all the frames are drawn out in that upper box for food storage. If there are still four or more frames that have not been drawn out in the other box, then you should remove that box and winter your bees in the one fully drawn-out brood box only. If you have an extra honey super with food in it, you can place that on the bottom. The bees will move that honey from the bottom box to the top box where they will have their winter cluster. The bottom box (Honey super) will be emptied and can be removed at the first hive inspection in the spring. That way you can avoid having brood reared in your honey super. If you place it on the top, the bees will have their winter cluster in the top box (Honey super) and the queen will begin to lay eggs in that box. You will need to monitor any hive that you winter in only one brood box or nuc box for food stores and feed them as needed.

Remember, "Never" give your bees more room than they are capable of caring for at any time of the year for any reason.

Dennis

Hey Dennis,

 I've removed some bees from a wall & put them by themselves for a while. I always give them there honey back a little at a time. Do you see any problem with this?  Wyndell Gore

Hello Wyndell,

Did you remove the bees and comb from the wall or just the bees? If so, did you place the comb in a standard frame using the string method or is there a different hive setup you used. Please describe what you did.

Hey Dennis,

I used a deep hive body. Cut the brood comb & rubber band it in frames. Cut some honey comb & place in frames. Took all the soft honey comb in plastic totes with lids for later. I try to leave the hive for a few days.

Hello Wyndell,

You did well. Remember to place that feral hive away from your other hives in case it harbors diseases. Don’t keep that honey comb away from the bees too long or the wax moth/beetles will destroy it. There is always pest eggs on the wax and will hatch out over a period of time and ruin everything. This is a tough time of the year to perform this task. Winter is so close. Make sure that the bees have enough stores to carry them through.

Dennis

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Days Gone By