If you are a member and have something to share that is "Bee" related such as a story or information, please send it to me by email.
Please preview my book ****** "Beekeeping: A Personal Journey" ****** on the book page. You can purchase it here on this site, in the classroom, Amazon.com or from Walter T. Kelley Bee Supply Company.
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Your host---For Sale--Bee Talk---Days Gone By
Don't forget to check out the "Cletus Calendar" page and the "Archive" page. The Archive page contains all of the previous months of the "Newsletter and Cletus Calendar".
I would like to let everyone know that I just finished my second and "probably" my final beekeeping book. It is called; "Beekeeping: Questions and Answers". It is filled with questions that I have received over the past fifty years of beekeeping and answers that has made my beekeeping career successful and my bees healthy.
My new book will be available in April on this website, Walter T. Kelley bee supply and Amazon.com. I will keep everyone posted on its arrival.
FOR SALE:Russian Queens, Nucs and/or Hives: I am a member of the Lone Star Farms bee club. I have never used any chemicals in my hives and I have been raising bees continuously for 36 years. I will be offering a limited number of Russian queens, nucs and/or established hives for sale. Queens-$25.00, Nucs-$145.00& Hives (Double brood boxes)-$375.00. If you are interested or need further information, please email me at firstname.lastname@example.org you may call me at 281.932.4887.
I'm planning to start over this spring in my endeavor to keep bees. I am against antibiotics in myself and my family so why would I want them in my bees! And besides all those bees did was die! so I'm not giving up but I am starting over and in so doing looking for better teachers like yourself. I found your letter in the ABJ Dec.2012 issue fascinating! I just reviewed your website, again what interesting information! I will purchase your book as soon as I get the $$. (Just had to leave a job and am starting over with that too.) But I still have my farm in upstate NY where we raise beef cattle and poultry and have for 35 years. the thing about bees that frustrates me is that I can't pick them up and feel their ears and check their nose like I do the cows and dogs and cats.
I got my first bees in the spring of 2011 - 2 hives that the guy was more than happy to sell me but when I had questions he wasn't there to help. One of those hives swarmed 3 times that summer. Then I met another guy that said he had bees and we talked and he came out spring of 2012 and said that one hive was dead and the other could be split so he did so and I ended up with two hives again. of course all these guys want to push the chemicals but I didn't succumb. I purchased 3 packages of bees in May 2012 because my husband said we needed more (I thought that meant he was going to help... it didn't) anyway, I lost the hive that was split, and two of the packages later in the summer due to what I was told was starvation due to the drought. I now realize I need to check the bees more frequently (I was taught early on that you do not disturb them unless necessary now I read more and know that I will be checking them often) And so now I have one hive left as we had a warm day last week and I decided to check on the bees. the one that was dead looked healthy and was full of honey but all the bees were dead. I've yet to figure out what brought that on. So as spring nears I'm reading everything I can get my hands on and trying to find good sources for bees and to learn how to better take care of them. they are fascinating creatures! I totally enjoy watching them fly in and out of the hive as they work each day.
Is there any possibility that poultry can cause disease in bees? Thank you for listening to this lady. Have a great day. Barbara
Sounds like you are a fighter. It is hard to find beekeepers who do not put chemicals in their hives. That includes queen breeders. It is really sad. Ninety % of all beekeepers dump chemicals into their hives. If you purchase bees from a breeder that uses chemicals, you will have to do the same in order to keep those weak bees alive.
I recommend ordering your bees from "B-Weaver" in Navasota, Tx or from the "Russian Queen Breeders Association" members. Neither of these queen breeders use chemicals in their hives and the bees are healthy and productive.
Poultry diseases do not affect the honeybees.
Hang in there. We need more chemical-free beekeepers in the world.
How have you been enjoying the cooler wetter weather? Hopefully it is a sign of good things to come for this spring. I have taken advantage of the weather and made some new hive stands to replace some of the "make shift" stands I have in the bee yard. As with all my endeavors, I have a question. Some of my hives are about 30 inches off the ground on "stands" the stands I have built are 16 inches tall. I understand that moving the hive too much at one time will cause the bees to relocate back to the old hive location, but how do I successfully move these hives to the new stands? They will be directly in front of their original location and about 14 inches lower. Do you foresee any issues? I was hoping since it was winter, that this would be a good time to do this since the hive population is down. Thanks in advance. Jeff
There should be no problem in placing the new hive stands in front of the old ones then moving the hives onto it. You will enjoy the new hive stands. Your back will feel better.
This weekend I checked on my bees down on the farm and noticed my first mites. I have had these hived for almost a year. Found a method on the web that uses mineral oil in a propane fogger. Have you seen this method? If so, Is it a wise choice. Seems a little drastic to me. Marcus
All hives have mites in them. We are not concerned with a mite count of 10 or less this time of year. Remember, there is very little brood in the hive right now because of the cold temperatures. (January) That means that all of the mites are outside of the cells and exposed to the bees. The bees (hygienic bees) are able to catch these exposed mites and either kill them or drop them to the bottom board. It is important to have a screen bottom board so the mites are able to fall through and out of the hive. If you are using a solid bottom, the mites will fall to the bottom board where they will reattach themselves to the first available bee.
If you have hygienic bees, you should not have to put anything inside the hive. If your bees are not hygienic, then you should re-queen with a hygienic queen. It was good to hear from you.
Days Gone By